Perhaps in the course of your reading or in visits to your cheese supplier, you have heard talk of the famous 7 cheese flavours … A controversial subject if there ever was one, since it could sometimes total 7, sometimes 4, perhaps 5 … In point of fact it all depends on what is meant by “flavours” and, as a function of this definition, there are several classifications.

In sensory orthodoxy, 4 primary flavours are distinguished linked to the 4 sensory zones of the tongue :

- 1. sweet
 2. savoury
 3. bitter
 4. acid

Yet in 1908, Japanese Professor Kikunae Ikeda, recognized none of these sensations in the seaweed broth which he had tasted. He subsequentlly identified this new taste by the term umami , “flavoursome”. Since the 1980s when upholders of the 4-flavour theory approved this 5th notion, it has been commonly added to flavour typology.

But this classification, based on the perception zones of the tongue, it appears, was soon to be considered reductive, because other notions, perceived therefore existing, are present : there is still talk of astringent, hot, metallic, fatty, starchy, etc.

Furthermore, there should be no confusion between “flavour” and “aroma” : the latter is not perceived by the tongue but by the nose once the cheese is in the mouth. It is obtained by masticating and salivating to the point where the aromas are freed and rise to the nose on contact with air. (See our article, The 75 cheese aromas).

So having said all that, what is meant in the profession by the 7 cheese “flavours” ? Personally, I would prefer to talk about expression levels …

Historically, great cheesemakers notably, for example, Androuet, refer to them in their publications and professional practices. Taste is so personal or subjective or cultural or conditioned by our eating habits from a very early age, that the great cheesemakers have constructed this classification, by drawing on their own experience. It’s a basis for a dialogue with their clients as consumers/ tasters expressed in terms of intensity. So it’s simply a grid for understanding “personal tastes”, ie information expressing a customer’s desire, understanding it and successfully responding to it as a cheese maker.

1. Fresh flavour :

This is a slightly acidic, not to say creamy and lactic flavour. It is particularly found in extra fresh cheeses with either smooth or granular textures : soft white cheese, fromage blanc, cottage cheese, goats’ milk cheese (from moulds), etc.

2. Neutral flavour :

“Neutral” cheeses in general suit those who don’t appreciate cheese that is too strong. It’s a flavour which is typical of the majority of fresh hard non-processed cheeses made from pasteurised milk, ie the overwhelming majority of industrial products. But it also includes very newly refined cheeses (except veined and washed cheeses).

3. Mild flavour :

This is particularly found in cream-enriched cheeses, as creaminess removes all aggressive tastes : it is present in Brillat Savarin, Marinettes, Crémet du Mont St Michel, etc.… It’s also found in soft or hard non-processed fresh cheeses when they are in their newly-refined phase. These include very low-refined soft-rind cheeses, young St Nectaire for example, or even the goats’ and slightly-salted-and-dried ewes’ milk varieties.

4. Understated flavour :

This in general is found in all cheeses whose refining phases have been interrupted before full maturity : they could as well include the soft variety (Camembert, Munster, Maroilles, Brie, Coulommiers, Chaource, St Maure, etc.) as they could hard cheeses at least 3 months’ old (Reblochon, Cantal, etc). But equally included are the majority of those with slightly marked rinds of monastic manufacture, such as Cîteaux de l’Abbaye, or of special manufacture, for example, Vacherin Mont d’Or, Raclette, etc.

5. Pronounced flavour :

This flavour is often talked of as “cheeses of character”. It often defines “well-produced cheeses”, not too thick, whose refining process is “just ripe” : included are Camembert AOC, raw-milk Brie, Bourguignon au Chablis, Curé Nantais, etc. The term is also used for well-refined and fruity firm cheeses, such as Beaufort, Fribourg, etc. Certain rustic Tommes also have this flavour, including 3-month old plus Auvergnates. Not forgetting early-season veined (Cashel Blue and Bleu des Causses) and semi-dry goats’ milk cheeses.

6. Strong flavour :

This notion covers :
  long-fermentation thick soft cheeses, eg Livarot , Maroilles, Epoisses, Munster, etc. Don’t be fooled, as their smell is generally more powerful than their taste … ;
  well-refined veined cheeses eg Fourme d’Ambert, or de Montbrison, Bleu des Causses ;
  hard thick cheeses nearing the end of the refining phase : 6 months for a Fourme de Rochefort or a Cantal, 10 – 22 months for a Beaufort or a Comté ;
  extra-dry goats’ milk cheeses.

7. Very strong flavour :

This goes from “hot, not to say high” flavours and is a notion applied in general to macerated cheeses (Tomme with brandy, for example) going on to very slow-fermentation cheeses (Boulette d’Avesnes) and including some well-refined blues (Corsican blue, Roquefort) ; it also applies to special preparations : old goats’ milk cheeses preserved in white wine, from St Marcellin to Gène de Marc, etc.

Generally, when cheeses are made from pasteurised milk, its tone has to be reduced by a notch or two in such an interpretation : when it gets there, it rarely passes level 5 (pronounced) !

Finally, when you next visit your cheese supplier, don’t hesitate to use, even over-use, these terms ! If you really don’t know your guests’ preferences, merrily pick a selection from these flavours. You will then be providing for “all tastes”. You can at the same time also take into account the menu of your meal : if it is dominated by mildness and delicacy, with fish and new vegetables for example, it would be a pity to upset the harmony by finishing with cheeses that are too strong. An ideal is attained when the cheeseboard suits the rhythm and tone of the meal.